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"Teardown of the mysterious KMS 4-port USB charger"

39 Comments -

1 – 39 of 39
Blogger Leo said...

cool stuff. What software do you use to generate the schematic figure?

November 25, 2012 at 3:34 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Brilliant article, thanks for all the measurements!

December 1, 2012 at 5:56 AM

Anonymous Ray said...

Ken, this is an excellent article, thanks so much for all the work you did, and for sharing it with others. I'm working on DIY solar chargers and inverters, and this is a really helpful article, full of good practical info.

December 9, 2012 at 4:39 PM

Blogger Vinay said...

Ken, this is an excellent article, thanks so much for all the work you did, and for sharing it with others.

December 27, 2012 at 8:21 AM

Blogger DaveR said...

Great article - I have a KMS-AC09 which just stopped working - it turns out F1 is blown as a result of a solder bridge next to the control IC.

December 31, 2012 at 11:41 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I found the voltage control feedback circuit interesting. The zener diode acts like a voltage controlled SCR. When the voltage reaches the threshold, it clamps down and sends a pulse over the opto isolator. When the PWM chip gets many of these pulses, duty cycle decreases. The inverse is true. When the pulses are lost, PWM shuts down as a safety. Seems like every charger I tear down has this design.

January 25, 2013 at 2:55 PM

Blogger Unknown said...

I found your site this morning following a post on osnews.

This is really high quality material on so many levels: not only do you reverse engineer cheap chargers in a big way. As a consumer I would be very happy if you only provided the schematics with component values; but that is only the beginning for you, here we get a thorough analyze of component layout, distances and what not from different perspectives (mostly safety but not limited to that). Then, to fully appreciate the product you provide us not only with the manufacturer for differnt parts of the kit and for the full shebang, we get a set of likely suspects whenever you are in doubt about the origin. On top of that we get a proper performance rundown with an interesting set of (well explained) tests.

I would have been more than happy finding just this, but you do not stop there, you make both power supplies and manufacturing sound interesting and exciting, that is a great achievement!

And you back all this up with nice prose and a dose of wit.

Keep up with the good work!

February 3, 2013 at 12:32 AM

Blogger Jitesh said...

Ken, Would you please also analyze the following?

http://www.amazon.com/Skiva-PowerFlow-Smartphones-Universal-Compatibility/dp/B008R97TOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1361924629&sr=8-1&keywords=quadfire

thanks,
Jay (I PMed you as well.)

February 26, 2013 at 7:40 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sorry if this is an obvious question.
Does this unit provide 2A at each usb port simultaneously (I could charge 4 phones at 2A each)? or 2A in total across the 4 ports?

Thanks for taking the time to write the article, was very interesting

March 7, 2013 at 1:18 AM

Blogger Unknown said...

Thank you, excellent work

August 28, 2013 at 4:42 AM

Blogger AK said...

I almost bought this charger via aliexporess. So glad for such a article to explain the good and bad.

November 2, 2013 at 4:03 AM

Blogger Unknown said...

do you have picture how to open the casing properly ?

November 20, 2013 at 7:11 PM

Blogger Ken Shirriff said...

Koh Wee Chai: the best way I've found to open chargers is to use a hammer and wood chisel and tap them around the seam. This will usually break the weld between the two parts of the case without breaking the case itself.

November 25, 2013 at 6:35 PM

Anonymous Falos said...

Amazing post. While most of it wasn't useful to me (that's just the parts I understood) this level of detail and minute investigation should be respected and lauded no matter what the subject.

Good show, sir. Good show.

December 3, 2013 at 11:33 AM

Blogger Unknown said...

Ken, suppose I wanted to intergrate an RF 5-24V receiver into the assembly. Where would be an ideal place to cut in at? Each USB output I have is ran to a single high power LED.

February 28, 2014 at 11:01 AM

Blogger Unknown said...

dear sir can u explain me how flyback circuit going on off.http://ahmedx.hubpages.com/hub/How-To-Use-A-Flyback-Transformer-As-A-Tesla-Coil-How-To-Convert-12V-DC-To-Thousands-Of-Volts#slide6203171

April 1, 2014 at 12:28 AM

Blogger Some Guy said...

I have two of these adapters. (One charges my devices at night (as well as powering a nearly dead-battery first generation iPod touch running a basic bedside alarm clock app). I use my second to power a Raspberry Pi computer sometimes for weeks/months at a time, also in my room. I don't overload the supply on either, maximum a little over 1000mA drawn - a far cry from 4*500mA USB devices)

Anyway, my question is will this kill me at night? I'm specifically worried about catching fire. It's quite near my head at night and another would block my escape route in the event of a fire. (I know the dangers high voltage reaching the output, but not of failure).

I can't afford $30 for Apple charger, but can afford $5-$15 for something safer, I hope to upgrade from the $4 KMS AC09.

Thanks! I really hope you or somebody gives me a reasonable answer!

April 24, 2014 at 6:42 AM

Blogger Jenica's Dad said...

Great teardown! I have two of these and so far have not had any problems with them, charging up to three 2A devices at once. But I like to know what's inside stuff I own. The question that lead me to this post was if there was any difference between the two pairs of ports. Now I know:)

June 3, 2014 at 11:27 AM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I bought it from
http://www.youbeli.com/port-usb-ac-wall-charger-adapter-plug-for-mobile-devices-28tc09ig29-p-388209.html

is this the same of what you have teardown?

June 9, 2014 at 11:11 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I have one of these recently and when charging on iPad air it works fine, today when I try to charge it with one iPad Air, one iPad 1 and connect wireless charging base to charge my iphone, it crashes and doesn't work anymore. The blue led light doesn't light up anymore, I guess its 'fried'.... anyway I can open up and do something to it? Kind of waste as it comes with the pounch and all the universal adaptor

August 28, 2014 at 11:36 PM

Anonymous angry said...

Hello, i bought this charger last week so my family could all charge their phone at night. Now everyone's phone battery is broken! My phone (htc one x) can only last for 2 hours now. I am very angry, especially since there is no clear manufacturer to send an email to. Can you explain how this charger could mess up phone batteries?

August 31, 2014 at 12:17 PM

Blogger tarotray said...

I thank you, Ken, for your stirling work. I want to see much more of this sort of information on-line than the 99.99999% trash that I usually come across. You are a scholar and a gentleman. :-)

October 29, 2014 at 7:27 AM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

The device can support max of 12 W means at 5 V it can deliver 2.4 A max

This dies not have charge standard ic at output which is all needed for apple and BB and others but they had resisters alone wi avoid ch to reduce cost
!2 w dissipation need heat sink and need esd protection circuits for safety

October 29, 2014 at 11:22 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Is it possible to remove the LED's without too much damage to the unit?

How is best to get it to bits?

Thanks

February 6, 2015 at 8:46 AM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks for the article on this USB charger. With you information I was able to make an informed buying decision against this product and will purchase a name brand product. Thanks for your attention to detail when breaking this item down. Great work.

March 6, 2015 at 7:57 AM

Blogger Unknown said...

I removed the LED's successfully.
1. Pry open with a large screwdriver from the 2 slits near the power plug.
The unit seems to be glued together.
2. remove the circuit board and find the LED's and break them. Make sure the wires left are not touching each other or the USB frame.
3. Put the circuit board back in. Put the button and sliding plate back in. Use tweezers to place the little spring in place that holds the button and sliding plate.
4. Glue the unit back together.

Job done.

June 17, 2015 at 10:23 PM

Anonymous Dean said...

Blue LEDs are good at resetting mammals' circadian clocks. IOW, they can be bad for sleep.

July 10, 2015 at 1:21 AM

Blogger Edo said...

Great article. Mine broke and today I opened it up. Interesting mine has even less parts(filter capacitors in the primary side) which part would break? My guess it's the control ic as the rest seem to measure just fine)

September 12, 2015 at 2:23 AM

Blogger Ken Shirriff said...

Edo, if your charger quit, my guess would be the switching transistor failed since it's probably the most-stressed component. But it could be the control ic.

September 12, 2015 at 8:32 AM

Blogger Edo said...

Thank you for your prompt reply. If I read your article correct the switching transistor in this case is inside the thx203h control ic right?would it make sense to put a small cooling block on that ic after I replace it since the charger failed under load and it got really hot . also my charger is cheaper missing the choke and x capacitor. It's just empty on the pcb. Would this have any effect on charging?

September 12, 2015 at 7:08 PM

Blogger Ken Shirriff said...

Edo, you're right - I forgot that this charger doesn't have a separate switching transistor. The missing components might make the charger radiate more noise and produce lower-quality power. A heat sink on the IC might help, but it would be easier to get a new charger.

September 12, 2015 at 9:22 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I bought two of these in early 2015 under the Korjo brand name in Australia. One seems to work fine (no obvious problems charging an iPhone 4S, an iPad Air2, and a compact camera). The other one caused bizzare behaviour (phantom touches and drags all over the place) on an iPad Air touchscreen while the iPad was charging from the Korjo and I suspect that the Korjo was responsible for damage to the battery circuitry in my iPhone 5S. After using the charger, the iPhone was losing 10% of the battery charge per hour even in standby and even after a full restore to factory state. Apple replaced the iPhone even though it was out of warranty. I called Korjo, in Australia, and asked them about it and they promptly replaced the charger at no cost. They said they had a bad batch at one point, but I won't be taking a chance with it after reading your excellent article, Ken.

November 19, 2015 at 11:45 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great write-up - thanks for this!

June 7, 2016 at 2:42 PM

Blogger Edo said...

Got it fixed. Replaced the thx203h-7v and one of the sr360 (one was faulty) added a small heatsink to the thx203h.. All seems well now.. Great blog.. Thx again!

June 9, 2016 at 4:52 AM

Blogger Evan said...

Hi Ken,

Nice write-up.

Regarding the isolation, it appears that the transformer uses 3mm tape on the secondary side next to the primary windings, and vice versa on the secondary winding. If true, and the bobbin gives adequate clearance, sufficient isolation may be present. 3mm will be from the margin tape, and from there 2-3mm will be required (the requirements change and it's possible only 5mm was required). On top of that, different inspectors have their own pet peeves or may miss a design error. But based on the quite-reasonable design I see elsewhere, I suspect approval may be possible. (Why it isn't approved is a mystery.)

Regarding power measurements, have you aligned your probes? Having the current and voltage improperly time-aligned will easily cause mW of error, which is significant in your case.

Also, you mention spikes but don't talk about your probes or the measurement method. It's so, so easy to see false spikes to due suboptimal measurement methods. From my experience, it's far to easy to blame a circuit for spikes when the real culprit is me. Getting the parasitics of the probes low enough to accurately see spikes is challenging.

July 5, 2016 at 1:10 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi, can you tell me why when i want to plug more than one appliance, there is a continuous bip sound ? Thank you very much.

September 19, 2016 at 2:14 PM

Blogger Joa said...

Hi Ken

I know your article and this thread is rather old, but I have one of these chargers (at least it looks exactly like this from the outside...). It has been working nicely for quite a while, but recently the blue light started flashing and it's not charging any more.

Did you come across anything that could cause this, or have a general idea what it could be? And more importantly, do you think it's something I could fix easily? I know it's probably not worth the hassle, but I like the "travelability" of it :-)

If it simply didn't work anymore, I would accept that it's dead, but I think the flashing might be a sign that it's just something simple that could be fixed.

Thank you lots
Cheers
Joa

October 24, 2017 at 1:04 PM

Blogger Ken Shirriff said...

Joa, if the output is shorted, the charger will start up and shut down about 4 times a second - does that match the flashing of the blue light? It must be working at least somewhat in order to light the LED, and then decides to shut down repeatedly. But it could be any component that failed in the charger. Personally, I'd just get a new one.

October 24, 2017 at 2:55 PM

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi, Ken!

I have MAXXTER charger, model ACT-U4AC-01-2 (http://www.maxxter.biz/item.aspx?id=8975).

This is full analog HICONN 4-Ports USB Wall Charger (http://www.hiconn.net/product/124-en.html).

In this charger used chip HiCONN 124 (analog SW2604 - http://www.semipower.com.cn), analog THX203H too.


July 13, 2018 at 3:49 AM

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